The 1960s televion series “The Prisoner” was set in “The Village” – in fact Portmerion – but in the episode “Many Happy Returns” the main characted is seen being parachuted back onto an island.
Today I am on an island just off the coast of France.
I am in good company, historically speaking, the prisoner of Louis 14th, “The Man in the Iron Mask” was a prisoner here for 11 years – the Island was an important Royal prison, similar to the Bastille in Paris – luckily that has been destroyed so I will not end up there.
The island is in Cannes, but a milion miles from the “Riviera” – I have been to Cannes and stayed many times and never noticed that half the view from the promenade is an offshore island.
Perhaps the island, or to be correct, the islands, are the “real” Cannes, certainly people have inhabited them for thousands of years and they would offer a more secure home and better facilities for fishing, which, apart from piracy, is the sole raison d’etre for this coastline.
Piracy is still evident everywhere on the mainland, I cannot grasp any sense in a person paying 2000 euro for a pair of shoes or a handbag, but the Corsaires of earlier centuries had a more direct way of parting you with your goods, your freedom or possibly your life, so civilised piracy is a little more humane, perhaps.
Why am I on an offshore island in the heart of the French Riviera? My principal function is to carry bags for a frind who has a commission to photograph the “paradox of Cannes” for an exhibition next year. Her sponsor is the museam of Cannes and they have a gallary and a base on the Island. So I am writing this from a 17th century French/Spanish fort overlooking the bay, a hotel room on the mainlnd (with an inferior view) would cost well over 1000 euro a  night, my tempoary home is infinately less and infinately more interesting and genuine.
Not long ago Cannes was a fishing village on the Mediterranean shore, there is no deep harbour but the islands give shelter and a communinity grew. Today there are about 20 “real” fishing boats and Cannes is known for film, festivals and fashion. This is the veneer seen by all visitors, underneath not much is left, a small, unimportant fishing village has been transformed. I am not yet sure if the oyster has made a pearl, or the pearl has metamorphosised into an oyster.
I am only here for a few days so all I can hope for is a glimpse of the real Cannes – if there still is a real Cannes – but I was sad to see the gross excesses of consuption and tasteless display of agressive wealth in the town, a few yards behind the glittering hotels are the people working to supply the sad dreams of a few.
It is a pity also that such a beautiful place was used for the intolerance and greed of others, but a group of children playing in the old prison buildings gives hope, and the surface veneer of the Rivieria is perhaps glued to  stronger stuff.
